Sunday, 25 December 2016

Disappearing Drain


Build a beautiful pool with a drain that matches any pool finish. Enjoy the beauty and the performance of the 20" unblockable Drain. The Superflow 360 Drain "disappears" and blends into the pool floor. Apply the same plaster, aggregate or tile to the top of the drain cover for a perfect match every time.



  • Beautifully blends into the pool floor
  • Designed with Pebble Top technology that adheres the same plaster, aggregate or tile being applied to your pool, directly to the top of the Drain Cover so that it virtually disappears into your pool floor
  • Flush with floor, no pool cleaner hang ups
  • 20" round unblockable drain (no second point of suction required)
The Superflow 360 drain is offered as an alternative to conventional single and multiple main drain installations for aesthetic reasons and/or when a higher flow rate than other unblockable drains is desirable.

Performance & Specifications

  • Outstanding flow rate for Superflow – 25 LPS or 85 M3/HR
  • VGB, ANSI/APSP 16-2001 and NSF/ANSI 50-2009a Compliant
  • Different colour options available

Saturday, 26 November 2016



15-Point Planned Maintenance and Equipment Safety Check

As winter starting, it is ideal to service performed on your heat pump system. Regular inspection & maintenance of your heat pump will ensure the highest operating efficiency. While protecting your investment, we will assist you in extending the useful life of your heat pump for a longer period.
AQVASTAR  with their knowledge in heat pump selection, and maintenance offer you a comprehensive maintenance and equipment safety check procedures that are designed to better ensure your heat pump operates efficiently and reliably when you need it to, providing maximum pool enjoyment!

Annual Maintenance & Safety Check Points:

·       Check Fan Capacitor
·       Clean Heat Pump Cabinet
·       Check Flow/Pressure Switch
·       Check Fan Blade Clearances
·       Verify/Check Air Flow
·       Verify/Check Water Flow
·       Check Fan Motor Amp Draw
·       Check & Clear Condensate Drains
·       Check Compressor Capacitor & Amp draw
·       Check Internal Electrical Connections
·       Check Operating Refrigerant Pressures 
·       Check Ambient & Water Temperature Sensors
·       Check Proper Line & Control Voltage to Unit
·       Identify Insect & Rodent Issues Within the Unit
·       Identify Environmental Conditions of Concern ( Any water splash, other issues)

Pls perform this if you are a maintenance contractor, or else please share this details to your clients to whom you had installed heat        pumps.

AQVASTAR – a company articulately commits to the industry for an awesome support

Monday, 21 November 2016

Tuesday, 15 November 2016


Why Pool Cover Required?

75% of a swimming pool's heat loss is due to evaporation. A solar cover minimizes heat loss from evaporation by acting as a barrier between swimming pool water and the air. Specifically, you can reduce your swimming pool heating costs by up to 70% by using a solar cover.

Swimming pool Energy loss
Swimming pools lose energy in a variety of ways, but evaporation is by far the largest source of energy loss. Evaporating water requires tremendous amounts of energy.
A)    Outdoor Pools Energy Loss.. 

    The evaporation rate from an outdoor pool varies depending on the pool's temperature, air temperature and humidity, and the wind speed at the pool surface. The higher the pool temperature and wind speed and the lower the humidity, the greater the evaporation rate. In windy areas, you can add a windbreak trees, shrubs, or a fence to reduce evaporation. The windbreak needs to be high enough and close enough to the pool that it doesn't create turbulence over the pool, which will increase evaporation. You also don’t want the windbreak to shade the pool from the sun, which helps heat it.

B)    Indoor Pools Energy Loss.. Indoor pools aren't subjected to the environment, but they still can lose a lot of energy from evaporation. They even require room ventilation to control indoor humidity caused by the large amount of evaporation. The ventilated air also must be conditioned, which adds to the energy costs. Pool covers minimize evaporation from both outdoor and indoor pools. Covering a pool when it is not in use is the single most effective means of reducing pool heating costs. Savings of 50%–70% are possible. Pool covers on indoor pools not only can reduce evaporation but also the need to ventilate indoor air and replace it with unconditioned outdoor air. 
You can also shut off exhaust fans when an indoor pool is covered, which saves even more energy.

What are pool covers made out of?

It's best to use a cover designed specifically for swimming pools. They're made of special materials, such as UV-stabilized polyethylene, polypropylene, or vinyl. They can be transparent or opaque. Covers can even be light or dark colored.

Types Of Pool Covers

Technically, all you really need for a pool cover is a large sheet of plastic. Plastic meets the requirement of being a vapour barrier. But a large sheet of plastic that you get from the lumber store is probably not your best choice. It will be very difficult to handle and store, it tears easily, and sunlight will deteriorate it rapidly. You can use a sheet of plastic, but it will be very inconvenient and it will probably only last 1 to 2 seasons maximum. It's best to use a cover designed specifically for swimming pools. They're made of special materials, such as UV-stabilized polyethylene, polypropylene, or vinyl. They can be transparent or opaque. Covers can even be light or dark coloured. One of the lowest cost covers made specifically for swimming pools is the bubble (or solar) cover. Bubble covers are similar to bubble packing material except they use a thicker grade of plastic and have UV inhibitors. Vinyl covers consist of a heavier material and have a longer life expectancy than bubble covers. Insulated vinyl covers are also available with a thin layer of flexible insulation sandwiched between two layers of vinyl. Outdoor pools gain heat from the sun, absorbing 75%–85% of the solar energy striking the pool surface. This is an important contribution to the pool's heating needs. A pool cover will decrease the solar gain contribution to some extent, depending on what type you use. A transparent bubble cover may reduce pool solar energy absorption by 5%–15%. A completely opaque cover will reduce it by 20%–40%. You need to consider this when selecting a pool cover. You also need to decide whether you want a manual, semi-automatic, or an automatic pool cover. You can manually pull the cover on and off, fold it, and place it somewhere out of the way. You can also purchase a pool cover reel to help manually roll up the pool cover. The reel, usually on wheels, can be rolled out of the way. Semi-automatic covers use a motor-driven reel system. They use electrical power to roll and unroll the cover, but usually require someone to pull on the cover when unrolling, or guide the cover onto the reel when rolling up the cover. Semi-automatic covers can be built into the pool deck surrounding the pool, or can use reels on carts. Automatic covers have permanently mounted reels that automatically cover and uncover the pool at the push of a button. They're the most expensive option, but they're also the most convenient. Some pool covers fit into tracks along the sides of the pool. This prevents anything or anybody from getting into the pool. They even support the weight of several people. If liability is a concern, these are a good option to explore. They can be run manually, semi-automatically, or automatically. Safety covers are recommended for public pools, and may be required by inspectors.


Pool covers should be used during your swimming season. If you use your pool during the daytime, take off the cover just before swimming and replace the cover as soon as you're done using the pool.If you use your pool only at night, the effectiveness of a pool cover will depend on whether the evaporation and other losses prevented by the cover exceed the solar gain reduction caused by the cover. The type of cover and the climate affects this balance. In dry and/or windy conditions, the evaporation rate of the pool increases. Therefore, it is generally beneficial to have a transparent or bubble cover on during daylight hours. In warm, humid conditions the evaporation rate decreases. In this case, it may be more beneficial to leave the cover off during the daytime.

Why install a pool cover?
  • Decreases the number of times your pool will need backwashing
  • Reduces chemical usage 
  • Saves up to 50% on heating cost  
  • Extends your swim season 
  • Reduce cleaning time by keeping dirt and other debris out of the pool.


Cumbersome swimming pool covers only work when you use them. Automated swimming pool covers are very user friendly, it operates at the turn of a key providing all the benefits with very little effort

More Money in Your Pocket

It saves you cash! A cover lowers your heating bills, chemical use, and water use, making it a worthwhile investment with immediate benefits.
For those colder months when you might be less likely to use your pool, a cover is an economical decision. And with its heating benefits, blanketing your pool may be a valuable way to encourage you to use your pool more often in spite of the winter chill!
With our quality pool covers it’s easy to keep your bases, and your pool, covered. And to experience those immediate savings, we can have your pool blanket measured and fitted within two weeks. Just contact us today to get started!

Sunday, 6 November 2016


Steps to remove algae in swimming pools

1. Brush the walls and floor of the swimming pool to remove as much of the algae as possible.

    This will greatly reduce the amount of time it takes to kill and clear the algae bloom.

2. Ensure that the pH level is within the range of 7.2 - 7.6. This will ensure that any chlorine

    added will work more efficiently - high pH levels in particular will impair the efficiency of
    the chlorine doing its job.With the pool filter system running, add a chlorine based
    swimming pool shock at the rate of 1.6 kg. per 1,00,000 litres of pool water dosage for
    killing algae. The pool filter system should continue to run 24 hours a day.

3. If the condition of the swimming pool does not significantly improve after 12-24 hours of

    filtering, add a second dose of chlorine pool shock at the increased rate. Repeat this process
    until the algae has been eliminated.

4. Once the algae is dead it will turn a white or grayish color, and it will be suspended in the

    pool water or settle to the floor. When there is no longer any sign of the color green in your
    pool, thoroughly vacuum the swimming pool. It is recommended that you vacuum dead algae
    to waste and not through filter.

5. The pool filter should be backwashed or cleaned to be sure that dead algae is not trapped

     inside the filter. If the filter is not thoroughly cleaned the algae may quickly return.

6. Test and balance all of the pool chemical levels using the following guidelines. Free

    Chlorine: 1-3 ppm, pH: 7.2 – 7.6, Alkalinity: 80 – 120 ppm and Calcium Hardness: 200 –
    350 ppm.

7. Begin adding an algaecide pool chemical on a weekly basis to prevent algae from returning.


  • Pay closer attention to the chlorine level of your swimming pool water in the future. Algae and harmful bacteria are almost immediately destroyed by a free chlorine level of 1 ppm or higher. You have experienced an algae problem because you have not properly maintained the chlorine level, and it was allowed to drop below 1 ppm. Test pool water frequently and make any necessary adjustments for a clean, safe and easy to maintain swimming pool.
  • Chlorine pool shock needs to be dissolved in a large bucket of water before it is added to the swimming pool. Always add chemicals to water when dissolving. NEVER add water to chemicals.
  • Monitor your pool filter system closely during this entire process and thoroughly backwash or clean the filter each time the pressure rises 10 psi. above the normal operating pressure. The dead algae that your pool filter collects may quickly dirty the filter, and need to be cleaned out frequently.
  • Phosphate Levels - high levels of phosphates in pool water will result in your pool using much more chlorine than usual. They are also one of the main food sources for algae, therefore it is important to have these levels checked fairly regularly especially if the pool seems to be using more chlorine than usual. A pool with a particularly bad case uses approximately 2.5 times the amount of chlorine that it should have, making it very difficult to maintain.

  • The swimming pool cannot be used until the algae is dead, and the chlorine level of the pool 
    water has returned to a safe level of 3 ppm or less.

Chlorine and swimming pool algae..

Why does chlorine kill swimming pool algae?

Chlorine kills bacteria and other single-celled algae by a chemical reaction called oxidation, which is 
sort of like burning by acid. Most drinking water also has chlorine, for the same reason. 
Our skin is tough enough that weak chlorine in water won't hurt us, but you've probably noticed that 
in some swimming pools your eyes start to sting if you stay in too long. That's the chlorine starting 
to "burn" them. 
Water, including swimming pool water, contains disease germs. Chlorine is the most common 
sterilizer. Slight amounts of chlorine are used to kill germs, but are harmless to people. Where water 
is sediment-free, only one or two parts of elemental chlorine may be added to 10 million parts of 
Remember that shock, or super chlorination can never do much harm, but the bathing experience 
will be unpleasant until the chlorine drops to its normal level. Under normal conditions, there 
should be NO apparent odour of chlorine; if your pool smells of chlorine, this is due to the chlorine 
that is combined with other stuff and cannot escape - it actually means that there is not enough free 
chlorine in the pool. 
Algae can grow in swimming pools if nutrients are present and a sufficient level of free chlorine is 
not maintained. In addition to properly dosing your water, it is recommended that the algaecide be 
added in the morning on a bright sunny day for best results. Algae are plants and grow in the 
presence of sunlight. Adding algaecide during algae's best growth time will increase intake of the 
algaecide and make it more effective.

Green Algae - is very susceptible to chemical treatment. Superchlorinate with 10 to 20 ppm
chlorine in the evening. Keep the filter running and brush the pool walls and bottom. Periodically 

check chlorine and maintain above 3 ppm until water clears. Using an 



quaternary ammonia the next morning will help prevent the return of green algae.

Mustard Algae - is much more resistant to chemical treatment and clings more tightly to pool walls 

than green algae. Adjust pH and super chlorinate as for green algae then brush carefully. Later 

vacuum the pool, check chlorine and super chlorinate again if necessary. Mustard algae will 

generally return unless treated with a special mustard 


 or a copper based (CuSo4) algicidal. 

Algicide should be added in the morning to treat algae in daylight - its most active period.

Black Algae - can be controlled to some extent by frequent superchlorination and careful brushing 

with a stiff brush. (You should have a wire-brush attachment for your telescopic pole). Spot 

treatments can be made by turning off the recirculation pumps and pouring granular chlorine 

directly on recently brushed spots. You need to use strong algicides and maintenance of relatively 

high free-chlorine residual, but complete removal of black algae may require draining and cleaning 

the pool.

A very good "shock" for an algae bloom is liquid chlorine - it is cheaps, works quickly, will not
harm the pool surface. It also breaks down into plain water in 1-2 days, leaving no residuals. Be
sure to also algea brush your pool daily to eliminate spores on the pool wall 
(which chlorine cannot 


How to Diagnose and Clear Cloudy Swimming pool Water

1. Test the swimming pool water for Combined Chlorine, pH, Alkalinity and Calcium
Hardness. The two areas that are most likely to cause cloudy pool water are the pH and the
Calcium Hardness.
2. If the pool chemical levels are not within the following suggested ranges, adjust the
chemicals and run the pool filter system for 12-24 hours before re-testing. Free Chlorine:
1-3 ppm, pH: 7.2 – 7.6, Alkalinity: 90 – 120 ppm and Calcium Hardness: 200 – 350
3. If all the pool chemical levels test in range, the cloudy pool water is caused by fine debris
suspended in the pool water. You should backwash or clean your pool filter following the
manufacturer’s instructions, and run the pool filter system continuously for 24 to 48
4. If the water conditions have not significantly improved you should add a clarifier pool
chemical to the pool water to help your pool filter remove the fine debris from the water.
Continue filtering for 12 to 24 hours.
5. If the water conditions have not significantly improved you should add a second dose of
clarifier, or a stronger clarifier chemical and continue to run your filtration system.
6. Sometimes a pool can be too cloudy for a clarifier. If this is the case you will have to move
up to a flocculent. This will drop any suspended particles to the floor so you can vacuum it
to waste.


  • It is important that you continuously filter the pool water until the water is clear, and 

    closely monitor your pool filter pressure. Backwash or clean the pool filter as needed, 

    following the pool filter manufacturer’s instructions.

Sunday, 23 October 2016


Selecting the Correct Size Heater for Pool and Spa

Many factors depend on how you heat your swimming pool – installation costs, how often you use your pool, size, location and climate.  This guide will show you how to calculate the minimum heating capacity for your pool based on your specific application and provide you with the information you need to make an informed decision on the best and most economical way to heat your pool.


Step 1

Determine the Ideal Water Temperature

How warm do you want the pool water and how fast do you want to raise the temperature? Most pool owners consider 28 degrees Celsius to be adequately comfortable. SPATA Standards validates that.


Step 2

Determine Average Ambient Temperatures

Calculate the average temperature in your area during the coldest month you intend to use it.
Important: Consider other weather conditions, including humidity, wind chill, and night temperatures. If you live in a dry climate, if wind speeds are high or temperatures drop at night, you should plan for a larger heater.

Step 3

Calculate Temperature Rise

Subtract the average temperature from your ideal temperature.  The result is the number of degrees your heater will need to heat a pool in order to make it comfortable. This is called ΔT.

Step 4

Measure Pool Capacity

Find the surface area of your pool. With depth find pool volume.

Step 5

Choose a Heating Condition

Decide how you plan to use your pool and how often.  There are two heating conditions to choose from; heat from cold or maintain the desired temperature.  If pool use will be on a daily basis, you may wish to keep it heated continuously.  Heating from cold will require raising the water from cold to the desired temperature.

The energy required is calculated in Kcal or BTU/hr. (British Thermal Units per hour).This is energy provided by the heater in order to heat your pool properly.

Important:  A pool will gradually lose heat due to evaporation and may cause your pool to take longer to achieve desired temperature.  Investing in a pool cover will reduce heat loss by up to 80%.

Step 6

Choose a Heater Type

There are a variety of pool heating methods available in a full range of capacities and models.

Need help?

If you need assistance, we're here for you.

A trained pool heating professional can perform a proper sizing analysis for your swimming pool to determine the correct pool heater size that you need.  We’ll provide you with product features and details on our complete line of heat pumps and heaters.

Sunday, 9 October 2016


A Review of Swimming Pool Sanitization Methods

Many homeowners struggle while trying to select sanitization systems for their swimming pools because they have many options to choose from. The truth is: no single system is best. Different swimming pools call for different systems. You should therefore consider a number of variables when selecting a sanitization system, including initial costs, maintenance costs, maintenance tasks, climate, and number of swimmers. In this article, I briefly discuss five popular swimming pool sanitization methods and list advantages and disadvantages of each.
Chlorine has historically been the most widely-used chemical for swimming pool sanitization, though several alternative sanitation methods have recently gained popularity. It kills bacteria by undergoing a simple chemical reaction. In this chemical reaction, chlorine breaks down into hypochlorous acid and hypochlorite ions, which then oxidize bacteria until they are neutralized or destroyed.
Advantages of Chlorine Sanitization
·       Chlorine has a long half-life and can therefore be stored for long periods of time.
·       It is available to consumers in many different forms. It can be found as a  solid granules, liquid, gas.
·       Chlorine has a residual effect: not only does it neutralize contaminants when it is first added to swimming pool water, but it also continues to neutralize long afterward.
Disadvantages of Chlorine Sanitization
·       By-products of chlorine are chloramines and trihalomethanes (THMs), which cause skin and eye irritation to swimmers.
·       After being added to a swimming pool, chlorine dissipates very quickly. Swimming pools that utilize chlorine must therefore be regularly tested and maintained.
·       Chlorine By-products have been associated with a number of health issues, including respiratory problems.
Salt Chlorine

Salt chlorine generators utilize a chemical process called electrolysis to form hypochlorous acid from salt and water. The key characteristic that distinguishes salt chlorine from its sanitizing counterparts is its ability to recycle itself. After the hypochlorous acid sanitizes the swimming pool water, it reverts back to salt, and then the process repeats. Salt chlorine generators have gained much popularity with homeowners recently, and the market for them is likely to expand further in the near future.
Advantages of Salt Chlorine Sanitization
·       Because the chlorine generated is so concentrated at the point of production (inside the salt cell), swimming pool water is superchlorinated when it passes through the energized cell. This superchlorination helps combat the buildup of chloramines.
·       Swimmers experience less skin and eye irritation in salt chlorine swimming pools than in traditionally-chlorinated swimming pools.
·       Salt chlorine produces nearly neutral pH levels, so few additional chemicals are required to balance the pH levels in salt chlorine swimming pools.
Disadvantages of Salt Chlorine Sanitization
·       Salt chlorine generators typically cost between more as its spares.
·       Salt cells must be replaced once every three to five years.
·       Excessive salt concentration is corrosive and can contribute to the breakdown of handrails, lighting systems and other equipment.
 UV Systems has proved that ultraviolet treatment with low levels of free chlorine has major benefits over any of these traditional methods.
The greatest benefit of UV treatment is that short-wave ultraviolet light has a photo-oxidation effect that destroys chloramines and other toxic by-products of chlorine. This is done without adding any further chemicals to the water. Much less chlorine needs to be used to provide bacterial control, so water quality and atmospheric conditions are considerably improved.
The primary UV disinfection process destroys all bacteria passing through the treatment plant. In particular, and unlike ozone systems, this protects bathers against bacteria in the filter media re-entering the pool.
Advantages of  UV Sanitization
UV destroys these pollutants releasing free chlorine back to pool.
UV acts instantly. Only low level chlorine residuals are necessary.

UV cuts costs by releasing the combined chlorine
Maintenance costs of UV equipment are lower, and do not increase significantly with age.
Disadvantages of  UV Sanitization

UV water purifier kill bacteria and viruses but does not remove dissolved impurities

Ozone is an unstable, inorganic  gas that is created when free oxygen atoms collide with oxygen molecules. It is manufactured by subjecting oxygen molecules to either a high-voltage ionization process or to ultraviolet radiation. Most ozone generators utilize the high-voltage ionization process because it results in a much higher concentration of ozone (20% by the high-voltage ionization process versus 5% by ultraviolet radiation).
Advantages of Ozone Sanitization
·       Ozone is a strong oxidizer. Specifically, it is 100 times stronger than chlorine.
·       It reduces the need for swimming pool maintenance: it breaks down filter-clogging contaminants such as grease and oils.
·       Ozone has no effect on the pH levels of swimming pools. Swimming pools that utilize ozone, therefore, require much less pH adjustment. This translates to less chemical usage.
Disadvantages of Ozone Sanitization
·       Ozone has a short half-life: it cannot be stored, but instead must be used soon after it is produced, and is only effective as it mixes with the water in the return line. After it returns to the pool, Ozone is released back to the atmosphere.
·       It alone is not a sufficient sanitization method for most swimming pools, as it cannot eliminate all swimming pool contaminants. However, Ozone is compatible with Chlorine or Bromine.
·       Ozone gas is harmful in high concentrations.